Day trip in the Saronic Gulf: the ultimate island hopping

In 2018, amid difficult personal circumstances, I suddenly felt the desire to leave France behind and discover a new country in Europe. Coming from an academic background in classical-ish literature, there were many places that I had known only through the yellowed pages of library books. Some of them, I felt, warranted a visit in person.

I had already been to Rome, so the obvious next destination would be Athens, the birthplace of democracy, philosophy, science, and other pretty neat things. Ah! To see it all, I thought: the places of art, of religion, of decision-making – still mostly standing 25 centuries after Alcibiades’ last wild party (which probably involved a drunk Socrates bothering people about the true nature of friendship or something).

And so I did. In the last days of October, I booked a hotel and flew to Athens. I will skip over the details, but overall I very much enjoyed my time in the Greek capital. I did and saw pretty much everything I was expected to do as a tourist, and may even have gone a bit overboard, earning the nickname “museum Stakhanovite” from a friend and colleague who coincidentally was also visiting Athens at the same time.

However, after maybe a week or so of seeing everything the city had to offer, I was left wanting more. Even if the city had somewhat lost its initial appeal, I would then head to the islands. The problem was that, due to a lack of information – and quite frankly of geographical knowledge –, I believed that the nearest islands were hours away from Athens.

Luckily, I soon realized how wrong I was. Indeed, Athens is located near the archipelago of the Saronic Islands, in the Saronic Gulf, and there are plenty of options to choose from, as many ferries offer one-day island cruises from Athens, thus making the Gulf a great destination for a day trip.

A short taxi ride later, I was in Piraeus, Athens’ main port, and ready to embark. So, come along with me on this unadventurous, but very fun and relaxing odyssey, and I will tell you about my day trip on 3 islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Agistri

Agistri is a relatively small island (13 km²) located 35 km from the port of Piraeus, sort of sandwiched between the larger island of Aegina to the northeast and the Methana peninsula to the southeast. A ferry will take you there in 50 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes approximately (mine was closer to the latter).

Even before I had reached the island, as the boat was slowly and steadily approaching land, Agistri made a profound impression on me. Two large, but fairly flat, lush green hills appeared on the turquoise horizon, with tiny white houses at their feet.

Small triangular white sails of sailboats were peacefully fluttering around us. The weather was just perfect too: cool and sunny, ideal for any activity. The whole island just screams relaxation and laid-back vibes as soon as you see it.

I soon arrived at Megalochori, Agistri’s main town and port, located in the northwest of the island, took a deep breath of fresh sea air, and wondered where I would venture first. Transport-wise, Agistri is in a sort of in-between place. It seemed to me that, on the one hand, the island was probably too small for cars to make sense (even though there are motor vehicles on the island).

On the other hand, if you were to try to do everything on foot, you would probably get tired pretty quickly. So, I opted for renting a bike. I didn’t have to go very far: there was a bike rental service just at the entrance of the port.

The charming town of Megalochori on the island of Agistri

With my newly rented bike, I headed eastward, following the coast of beautiful Agistri. The only issue is that I had to reacquaint myself with bike riding since I don’t really do that kind of thing in my everyday life.

A fact that became painfully obvious when I had some sort of technical issue 10 minutes later. My bike eventually broke down in front of a quaint little white-washed church. Luckily, a nice couple of elderly tourists came to the rescue and I was soon good to go. Although, I did visit the church first. The interior was quiet and serene, and, as you would expect from a typical orthodox church, adorned with gilded icons.

I continued to follow the coast path until I reached a small beach nested in a lovely creek. I don’t recall anyone swimming, but a few people were dipping their toes in the crystal-clear water. I think I could have done a full tour of the island with my bike if I had had time and set my mind to it, but Agistri wasn’t the only island on my list and I also had to keep an eye on the ferry schedule.

I headed back to Megalochori, left the bike at the store, and was soon onboard another ferry for my next destination.

The picturesque church of Saints Anargyroi in Agistri

Moni

Next was the much smaller and lesser-known island of Moni. Located a stone’s throw away from Aegina, Moni can easily be reached by boat from the port of Perdika.

This uninhabited islet boasts an impressive natural landscape and crystal blue waters. Untamed and unspoiled, it gives off a very raw and very pure impression, as if you were, for lack of a better analogy, a castaway washing ashore on some remote and heavenly island.

In general, people come to Moni to take a swim in turquoise waters, get a tan on sun-drenched beaches, and discover the wonderful flora and fauna. Moni famously abounds with wild peacocks and deers, in particular, which roam freely in the forest. You will hear plenty of stories of friendly encounters with the wildlife, since, over time, the animals got to get acquainted with the tourists visiting the island.

While I loved the peacocks, seeing deers up close will always be a magical experience, whenever and wherever it happens. I changed clothes and headed to the beach. The water was a bit too cold for my liking, but this was to be expected for Autumn.

The beach bar was also closed. On the plus side, there were much fewer tourists than during the high season, I imagine. Overall, I didn’t spend that much time in the water, or even at the beach, but I was nonetheless charmed by the sight of the crystal-clear waters gently lapping the pine-clad shore.

The landscape of Moni, interestingly enough, is a tale of two halves: one side is characterized by rocky, barren stretches, while the other is covered with pine trees that reach the coast, meaning that, in reality, you only get to enjoy half of an already small island. Hence, perhaps, why I didn’t feel the need to stay very long in Moni. Besides, I had one more island to cross off my list and it was the “big one”.

Sailboats close to Moni Island, in the Saronic Gulf

Aegina

Second largest island of the Saronic Gulf, Aegina is located merely an hour away from Athens by ferry. Alas, as for the two previous islands, I didn’t have time to wander very far or to do much, so I decided to focus on the main town of the island, also called Aegina, and its surroundings.

I hopped off the boat and began my last visit of the day by walking along the seafront, which is lined with palm trees. Among the numerous cafés and hotels, I noticed several street vendors selling roasted pistachios. If you’re a foodie, you may have heard of Aegina for its pistachios.

Indeed, the people of Aegina proudly claim to produce the best pistachios in the world. Had I left the island without tasting some, I might have taken this statement as an empty boast; but a mouthful of pistachios later, I knew there was definitely some truth behind their bold proclamation.

The pistachios from Aegina are truly exceptional, with a distinct flavor and a satisfying crunch that leaves you craving more. I bought two bags as a gift for my family, but ended up indulging myself in eating a full bag on my own in my hotel room.

I eventually reached the church of the Virgin Mary and made a short visit inside. Then, I sat at a table outside a café and enjoyed a fresh beer, which the pistachios complemented nicely. Now fed and refreshed, I left the main avenue and strolled the traditional cobbled streets of the town and dropped by some stores where I bought – inedible – souvenirs for my friends and family.

From there, I headed towards the Archaeological Museum of Aegina, a 5-minute walk from the port. I dare not calculate just how many museums I had visited at that point but suffice to say that, after that one, I had definitely earned my nickname. While it’s not as large and its collection not as impressive as other Greek museums, it still exhibits some pretty fascinating pieces of history and shines a light on Aegina’s ancient past. As a side note, it’s also the first national museum of Greece, founded in 1829.

The museum is right next to the town’s main archeological attraction: the Temple of Apollo. Sadly, though, there is not much left of it. Most of the site consists of knee-high ruins. The only exception is a single column, partially broken but still standing there, the kind you would find mentioned in an early 19th-century romantic poem by Percy Shelley, serving as a melancholic reminder of former glory. It dates from the 6th century BCE, making it even older than the Parthenon in Athens. It also offers a nice viewpoint on Aegina and the Saronic Gulf.

View of the town of Aegina from the Temple of Apollo

This is pretty much the last thing I did in Aegina. As the day was ending, I ambled down the seafront, got back to the pier from where I had left, and embarked on the ferry from Aegina to Athens. The ship departed smoothly from the port and was soon sailing at cruising speed towards Piraeus.

From where I was, standing on the deck, Aegina island appeared smaller and smaller, until I could barely make out the fading shape of the mountains on the horizon. I stayed there for a little while, reflecting on the day past, basking in the orange hue of the setting sun.

A dramatic sunset over the Saronic Gulf, Greece

Back in Piraeus, I had no trouble finding a taxi and getting back to Athens, with a backpack full of souvenirs and a head full of memories of a wonderful day.

Author Bio

Hello there! I'm Benjamin Saltel, independent translator and French Language Manager at Ferryhopper. While my friends and family generally see me as a homebody, what gets me out of bed in the morning are the plans I'm always making for my next trips abroad. I love exploring new places, meeting strangers, and getting familiar with foreign cultures – although I don't travel nearly as much as I'd want to. Truth be told, though, my most comfortable environment is my home, where I'm often found tinkering with computers, cooking homemade pasta, or watching old kung fu and samurai movies. I guess I'm trying to strike a balance between the strange and the familiar. My next adventure? Only time will tell, but I already have some pretty good ideas… 😏🚢