Astypalea: Exploring a butterfly-shaped island in a week

Astypalea was a long-awaited destination on my travel list. And thankfully, it lived up to my expectations, ranking among the most stunning Greek islands I've ever explored. Here are the highlights and insights from my week-long stay on this butterfly-shaped Greek island. 

View over Steno, a narrow slice of land in the middle of Astypalea

The trip starts on a ferry 

Our journey started by hopping on the ferry from Piraeus to Astypalea. Piraeus is the largest port of Athens, and from there, ferries usually take around 7 to 10 hours to Astypalaia, depending on the route.

While it's not the quickest way to travel, I've always enjoyed the relaxed pace and the beautiful views of the Greek islands from the ferry. A handy tip is to opt for air-type seats; they're more budget-friendly than cabins and still quite comfortable for longer ferry rides.

Another tip: you don't have to go directly to Astypalea. Greek ferries make multiple stops, so why not visit a nearby island first? In this case, I would consider Amorgos. Check out the Map of Ferries on Ferryhopper, where you can find all possible ferry connections to Astypalea - the simplest way to plan your Greek island-hopping adventure.

Our accommodation dilemma

When considering your accommodation, chances are you will encounter the same dilemma we did: Hora or Livadi. We went for Livadi, a decision that truly paid off due to its convenient location near our favorite beaches along the southwestern coastline.

Plus, Livadi boasts a wide range of budget-friendly lodging options, and parking is a breeze compared to Hora, especially during peak hours.

View of Livadi from the road that leads to Hora

Astypalaia is also known for its bohemian camping scene, which is particularly popular among young Greeks. Even if you don't consider yourself an avid camper, it's a lively hub that frequently hosts events featuring live music and DJ sets, creating a fantastic atmosphere for mingling.

The campsite is conveniently situated about 2 kilometers north of Hora, along the road leading to the island's eastern side. Getting there took us less than 5 minutes by car from Hora.

Plus, there's a bus stop right at the campsite's doorstep, and you'll also notice many people hitchhiking around the island. In fact, we had the chance to make some new friends by stopping to give them a ride.

Astypalea blends architectural elements of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese

Hora: The heart of Astypalea

Hora is the beating heart of the island and a visual masterpiece. You'll find narrow, winding alleyways with whitewashed houses and doors painted in all shades of blue – a nod to the Cycladic aesthetic. Yet, Astypalea is technically part of the Dodecanese.

View of the Aegean Sea from a little window in the Castle of Astypalea

The most iconic landmarks of Hora are eight traditional windmills that house shops, boutiques, and even a library. Still, what grabs the attention is the Venetian castle that reigns over the town since 1204. The imposing fortress offers unrivaled views of the Aegean Sea, making it the perfect spot to catch a sunset or watch the sunrise after a night of bar-hopping.

The traditional windmills in Hora and the Venetian castle

Let’s talk beaches: My top picks

And now, let's move on to my favorite topic: the beaches. They were, without a doubt, the highlight of this trip. From sandy shores to pebbly coves and rocky formations, Astypalaia has a little bit of everything.

Plus, despite it being August, we never felt like the beaches were too crowded. In fact, there were moments when we practically had a whole beach to ourselves! These are my top 5 beaches in Astypalea:

Kaminakia: It’s hands down one of the best beaches on the island. Located on the southwestern coast, it takes a 30-minute drive along winding dirt roads that call for a hint of patience. But it's all part of the adventure, right? The road leads to an impressive cove with a few trees for natural shade and a welcoming tavern.

Kaminakia Beach, one of the top beaches in Astypalea

Vatses: Very close to Kaminakia, Vatses was also a favorite. The drive is shorter, but don't let that fool you; dirt roads are still involved. Vatses is a pebble beach amidst towering cliffs. Just a heads up: it can get windy, so choose your beach days wisely.

Right next to Vatses is Mikres Vatses, a small beach accessible by boat or, if you are feeling adventurous, by a 200-meter swim from Vatses. We did it while snorkeling, and sure, it was worth it!

A little chapel on the way to Vatses beach

Tzanaki: It was the only beach we visited twice. You can park nearby and walk down a slightly steep path to the beach or take a 20-minute walk from Livadi. With Hora's silhouette in the distance, Tzanaki offers an idyllic spot for a refreshing swim and sunbathing.

If you are a no-tan-line type, a rocky passage beyond the first beach leads to a secluded second beach, where you can work on your all-over tan.

Hora, as seen from the path to Tzanakia Beach

Steno and Plakes: In the middle of Astypalea, a narrow isthmus connects the eastern and western parts of the island. We visited two beaches there: Steno and Plakes. Steno has golden sand, clear waters, and, most importantly, doesn't involve any long hikes.

In contrast, Plakes is known for its rugged terrain and charming pebble-lined coves. It takes a ten-minute walk down a rocky path to reach it.

The path that leads to Plakes Beach

From hidden isles to hiking trails

A boat tour is a must-do when visiting Astypalea. These tours grant access to islets, caves, and secluded coves accessible only by sea. Do not miss your chance to hop over to Kounoupi and Koutsomiti, two beautiful islets with white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Walking down the hiking trail to Agios Ioannis Beach 

There are also a few hiking options on the island. My favorite trail was the one that starts at the Byzantine church of Agios Ioannis of Makri. The path is clear and marked with red paint.

It takes a 45-minute hike to reach the beautiful beach of Agios Ioannis. Along the way, you will come across small waterfalls and streams.

Some new friends along the way

Tasting the local flavors

Wandering through the alleys of Hora, we stumbled upon charming little taverns where we tasted more than a few mezedes – those flavorful assortments of Greek appetizers – along with an 8 Mills, a locally-inspired IPA beer. Two places stood out: Apanemia and Karai.

View over the eastern part of Astypalea from a chapel in Hora

Seafood is a highlight on the island, and to find the freshest options, head east. Analipsi has some of the best seaside taverns where you can take a break from swimming and enjoy freshly caught seafood with a view. Our absolute favorite spots were Almyra and Astifagia. 

Aside from seafood, Astypalea's food experience revolves around Chlori, a soft, locally-made cheese that is the heart and soul of the island's cuisine. Chlori finds its way into many local recipes, notably in Pouggia, small dough pies stuffed with Chlori and various sweet or savory fillings.

Fotini, looking at our next destination on the horizon

Final thoughts on Astypalea

I have to say, Astypalea is one of the most laid-back islands I've visited in Greece - a perfect place for a relaxed summer break. Now that you know what makes this island tick, how about hopping on this easygoing butterfly in the heart of the Aegean Sea and experiencing it yourself? I guarantee you'll love the journey!

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Author Bio

Heyo! I'm Chris Michalopoulos, a copywriter by day and a wanderer by nature. When not crafting words for Ferryhopper, I'm scouring the web for travel deals and capturing life through the lens of my camera. I'm a linguist at heart, fluent in six languages, which comes in handy when swapping stories with people from around the world over an ice-cold beer (or two). And speaking of stories, that's what this blog is all about - sharing those stories and inspiring you to drop your next pin on the map 📍🗺️